Making the biodynamic tree spray and tree paste

Peter Escher, Biodynamics Journal, No. 157, Winter 1986, reprinted with kind permission.

The biodynamic tree spray or paste is used extensively for trees, shrubs and berries on trunk and twig. In some cases, it is also used on leaves. If it is made carefully, it can stick top the bark a long time. Sometimes a small percentage of other materials are put with it and then it acts as a carrier. This makes these materials more effective because they stay on bark and twig longer and are not washes off by the next rain.

Two types of materials are added. Rotenone, pyrethrum, and other insecticides of vegetable origin are applied as a temporary measure to overcome insect infestations until the damage done by them has either been reduced or eliminated. Quassia can also be added to give the plant a flavour that the insects do not like. Some researchers found that a similar remedy was used at Kew Gardens, the English Horticultural Centre, as late as the end of the eighteenth century.

The tree paste is used as a preventative. It may take time until the effects show. It has a healing effect and helps to clean bark and twig. In extreme cases it is necessary to clean the trees before applying this remedy.

Tree Paste

There are two ways of making the tree paste or spray. The tree spray consists of some materials that must be purchased. It is more expensive to make but takes less time to make and apply. Some people like to make their own paste and get into a closer contact with what is going on.

Old tree paste formula

Originally the paste was made by using equal parts of volume of a fine clay with some loam, and cow manure, presumably between moist and wet, say 60% moisture. Mix well. Next, add preparation 500 (horn manure) stirred and equisetum tea. However, I prefer to apply equisetum separately. Some people suggest the addition of dried blood. Blood somehow does not seem to belong to the bark, rather to the soil or even leaves.

New tree paste formula

Use two or three parts of clay loam to one part of manure. The problem is the selection of the clay-loam. The clay should contain very fine clay for proper penetration. It is essential that the past or spray does not only provide a coating over the bark, but also a penetration between parts of bark and cracks and crevices, also in the crotch between trunk and branch where insects like to hibernate. As before, add preparation 500.

Tree spray

This material can be painted on with a brush to use as a tree paste. It can also be sprayed with a spray rig. A sprayer of a type where the materials are blown rather than pumped under pressure with a piston pump should be used because these materials are highly abrasive.

Clay: the best results have been obtained with bentonite. In geology it is called montmorillionite. It absorbs the most moisture and has the best spreading potential. It achieves similar results as those described under tree paste with a much thinner coating. That is, less material is needed. You will have to figure out for yourself which is preferable under your circumstances.

For fine clay like bentonite, it takes a little time for the water to penetrate thoroughly. Some people soak it the evening before while others stir it or circulate it in a sprayer or mixer.

Bentonite and silicates (see below) can be obtained from pottery supply houses. Bentonite is used industrially for well drilling, insulating farm ponds, etc.

Cow manure: the dropping of the adult female of the bovine species having had at least two calves. There should be no straw in it for easier handling. Fresh cow manure is best. The manure can either be dried in the shade, then ground without heating up, then screened; or it can be mixed with water and flushes through a screen or filter such as a muslin cloth.

Water: use fresh water. If it comes from a mountain brook and has been mixed with oxygen, so much the better. Chlorinated water should be exposed to sunlight for a day. Rainwater is all right, but tar particles from the roof might be harmful. Let it flow though a screen to keep particles of sand and other flotsam from plugging up the orifices of the sprayer. Water polluted with fertilizers or chemicals should be avoided.

Silica: often added to provide small breathing spaces between the very fine clay particles. Some are readily available from pottery supply houses, others are sold as commercial fertilizers under various trade names in the Southeast. If the later are to be used, they must be screened to avoid clogging up small orifices. These have the advantage of being slowly biodegradable. Most silicas are quite inert. If the leaves are to be sprayed, the addition of silica is suggested, particularly if a fine clay is used.

Biodynamic field spray or preparation 500 (stirred) should be added to activate the interaction between clay and bark. The interaction is slow so it is difficult to prove but you will notice it if you observe carefully.

Other materials can be added, if desired.

Rotenone and pyrethrum can be added at a rate of 2-3% of the rate usually recommended. Some researchers state that these materials leave a toxic residue. Whether this is the case with such small dilutions is up to the reader to decide. These materials are effective because the tree spray keeps them from being washed off.
Camphor, finely ground, is sometimes used against borers. If camphor is not available, some people use finely ground moth powder with the hope that it evaporates before it does any damage.
Some people recommend diatomaceous earth as an admixture. While non-toxic, it is a “broad spectrum” insecticide because it injured insects crawling over it regardless or whether they are damaging or beneficial.
Ryania used to be an effective means against the codling moth. It is, to the best of our knowledge, no longer available.
Quassia is a remedy much appreciated by some of the most skilled gardeners. The pungent taste is disliked by some insects. Some beetles like a sweet taste, perhaps an over-sweet taste. This would indicate a fruit that has passed its prime. Apply at a rate of approximately 4% of the mixture.
For better sticking qualities potato starch can be added at a rate of 10%. If large quantities are to be handled, cold water-soluble starch can be used, a product made with cornstarch.

DO NOT USE ANY SURFACTANTS OR DETERGENTS AS SPRAYS – THEY CAN HARM LEAVES

References

Bio-Dynamic Sprays, H. Koepf and E. Gregg

Bio-Dynamic Treatment of Fruit Trees, Berries and Shrubs, E. Pfeiffer

Grow a Garden and Be Self-Sufficient, E. Pfeiffer and E. Riese

Agriculture, R Steiner

The above are available from Bio-Dynamic Literature.

The late Peter Escher was he irrepressible biodynamic advisor featured in Fall 1985. This was the last piece he wrote. His spunk is illustrated by an incident which occurred on the day he dies. Some boys were playing noisily outside his window. With a twinkle in his eye and between gasps for breath, he remarked to an attendant: “Out there they’re playing kick the can, while in here I’m playing kick the bucket!”